鹅肝

　　芥末虾球

　　概览菜单，便知理应如此，这里的特色就是给食客提供一种中西融合、中餐西吃的美好体验，并且可以说把这种融合做到了极致。不仅如此，锦庐还根据不同的季节推出相应的时令菜和套餐。随着圣诞新年的即将来临，餐馆总经理Mary女士安排我们品尝了一份他们特为圣诞新年设置的极佳套餐，让我们饱尝了其特色的秋冬美味。

　　首道菜是爽滑油润的鹅肝蔬果果仁沙律。其中的鹅肝形如鸭脯，与法式餐馆中的鹅肝迥然不同。此菜鹅肝色泽自然，形状完好，富含脂肪(此说并无贬义)，因为油润鹅肝口味更胜一筹，再加上蜜饯核桃和葡萄干果，实乃天然巧成，不但微甜爽口，且有保健养生之功效。 中西风味巧妙融合，算得上是绝好的开胃佳肴。

　　黑椒牛肋骨

　　甜品

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　　在我品味开胃佳肴之后，侍者端上两浅碗橙色浓汤—此乃该餐馆招牌菜之一的黄焖鱼翅鱼唇汤。我上一次食用鱼翅，距现在已颇有些时日，当时专注鱼翅美味，不做他想。至于鱼唇，则只闻其名，却未曾吃过。Mary总经理介绍说鱼唇具有护肤功能，富含胶原蛋白，很适合冬季食用。我一直想再尝鱼翅，这道黄焖鱼翅鱼唇确实美味难挡。鱼翅及鱼唇口味不显，但口感独特—爽滑胶韧、软粘耐嚼，用高汤来煮，这样汤汁可被充分吸收，并烹煮出其自身的鲜味。此汤口感丰厚油润，营养丰富，可谓秋冬绝佳美味。

　　下一道菜是鲍汁黑椒酱焖小牛排，肉质鲜嫩，酥软脱骨，烤得恰到好处，裹上鲍汁黑椒酱，颇具烧烤风味，并配有两片花椰菜中和口味。待我们吃完牛排，送上的是一道迷你小南瓜鲜蔬。我正想要一份沙拉或蔬菜与主菜搭配吃，因为前几道菜有点略感厚味。小巧可爱的小南瓜盅中盛少许芦笋、蘑菇、还有碎荸荠及黄瓜等蔬菜。这道菜造型别致精巧，不过要是能再多放一些蔬菜就更好了。

　　等待甜点之际，我们详阅了菜单，品评了餐馆。虽然是个工作日的晚上，锦庐的顾客也不少，中外人士均有。现代风格的坐席安排，让人舒适用餐的同时感觉享有私密空间，这也是锦庐恰到好处地运用西式风格的体现。回顾这次用餐，我觉得唯一的遗憾就是享用鹅肝和牛排时未点酒品。看了锦庐的丰富酒单，我竟然未能品尝酒品，实感遗憾。我们认为锦庐餐厅的高人气源于其中西合璧、兼容并蓄：中国人喜尝西式风格的中餐，而西方人爱好欧洲风味的中餐。我不知何时能再访锦庐，虽说价格不菲，但此处佳肴绝对物有所值。在此，我强烈推荐，在您特别的日子，就来锦庐庆贺吧。绝对不虚此行!

　　服务质量： 非常好

　　菜品质量： 非常好

　　用餐环境： 非常好

　　特色菜： 黄焖鱼翅鱼唇汤，鹅肝，鲍汁黑胡椒焖小牛排

　　人均消费： RMB300-400元

　　地址：上海茂名南路59号，锦江饭店一层

　　电话： 021-64451717

　　A special year-end menu featuringindulgent and decadent Chinese delicacies for the fall and winter。

　　Once you walk into the Chinoise Story, you feel the elegance and luxury that itoffers. Winner of countless Best Restaurant awards and listed in all the travelguide books, it seems to be THE place to be and be seen for Shanghainese, andone glance at the menu explains why. It is full of rare Chinese delicacies likeliver, abalone, fish maw, and shark"s fin. Their present set menus are ayear-end special and give diners the chance to sample each of these renowneddelicacies. The fantastic general manager Mary planned a set menu perfect forus to taste their cold-weather specialties。

　　We started off with a rich andcreamy foie gras with fruit and nut salad (148rmb). It was obvious from thefirst glance that this was nothing like the foie gras you see at Frenchrestaurants, it looked almost like a piece of duck breast. The liver itselfseemed more natural, un-trimmed and therefore full of fat. I didn"t complainbecause the extra fat made it taste even more decadent. Exquisitely paired witha sweet and tangy salad of candied walnuts and dried goji berries, which alsohave medicinal qualities in Traditional Chinese Medicine, this appetizerperfectly blended a traditional Western dish with Asian flavors。

　　As I savored every bite of theappetizer, our server brought two shallow bowls full of a thick orange soup,one of the restaurants signature lavish dishes: slow-cooked shark"s fin andfish maw (300rmb). The last time I had shark"s fin, I was young and unaware ofthe harmful way the fins are collected. But fish maw I had never tried before butheard of it and Mary mentioned its benefits for your skin; it is a naturalsource of collagen and helps keep your skin healthy during the cold. I used tolove shark"s fin and have been curious to try it again, and this soup did notdisappoint. It is true that shark"s fin and fish maw do not have their ownflavors, it is their textures that distinguishes them. Slippery, rubbery andchewy, they really are an acquired taste. The best you can hope for is thatthey are cooked in a tasty sauce or broth because they absorb them well. Thissoup was decadent again: rich, buttery and perfect for the cold weather。

　　Now I was craving for a salad orside of steamed vegetables with our main course, as the first two dishes werejust so fatty. We were served the slow-cooked veal steak in abaloneblack-pepper sauce (58rmb). The meat was tender and fell right off the bone,roasted perfectly and smothered with what tasted like a barbecue sauce. Thedish itself was served only with two broccoli florets, and they didn"t serve themini steamed pumpkin with vegetables until we had finished the steak. I wouldhave preferred more vegetables, as the pumpkin only had one piece of asparagus,and a single piece of mushroom, water chestnut, and cucumber chopped up inside。

　　As we waited for our desserts, weperused their full menu and commented on the restaurant itself. Although aweekday evening, there were a number of visitors, mostly Asian but with a fewWesterners. The contemporary seating arrangement made it a private diningexperience, another Western feature of the Chinoise Story. Looking back at ourmeal, I probably should have ordered wine with the foie gras and veal. One lookat their comprehensive wine list, I regretted not having a chance to sample it.I discussed with my dining companion why the restaurant was so popular and weboth agreed that the fusion works perfectly: Chinese locals enjoy eatingChinese food cooked in a Western way while Westnerners find it easy to tryChinese dishes that have European flavors. I am not sure when I will be backsince this place is not cheap, but it is definitely worth the splurge. I wouldhighly recommend this venue for special occasions, especially anniversaries。

　　by Karol Ng

　　Service quality: excellent

　　Food quality: excellent

　　Price per head (RMB)： 300-400

　　Environment: excellent

　　Feature dish or menu: Shark"sfin and fish maw, foie gras

　　No. 59 South Maoming Rd. //锦庐，茂名南路59号，锦江饭店一层 Tel:021-6445 1717 Shanghai

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